I received an email a few weeks ago with an invitation to check out a preview dinner for Chef Chris Mills who for the second time was going to be cooking at the James Beard House in New York. Cooking at the James Beard House is a goal of mine and to have the opportunity to do it twice would be like winning the lottery….twice. I had to check this out but honestly, I had never heard of Chris Mills and beyond that the dinner was going to be held at Joey Restaurant in Seattle. I’ve been there a few times and each time I have been there I had just gone there to grab drinks with the guys and eat a burger and watch sports on the huge television. In the summertime it’s the place to be with a patio that overlooks Lake Union and gives you easy access to a friend’s boat……that was my experience with Joey Restaurant in Seattle. I’ve been to their restaurant in Bellevue many times during my business suit wearing days and I’ve even visited their new location in Southcenter…..I’ve been to Joey’s many times but after eating this dinner last night I had no idea they could put out this type of food. Joey’s….yeah burgers, sports on t.v., good scenery on the inside and on the outside….plain and simple, that was it before Chris Mills and his crew came in with guns blaring.
Joey restaurants brought in all of their general managers from their 20 restaurants, located mostly in Canada, and proceeded to provide white glove service and top notch food fare. What? This is Joey’s right? The one with the burgers and t.v…….and perfectly paired wines…..and amazing food….and dishes…and food combinations that will lead you in the right direction….and inspire…. “Eric, your thoughts are changing on Joey’s”. You’re damn right they are…..I’m confused now….
Hors D’Oeuvres:
Peaches & Cream Chicken ‘Corndog’
Japanese Hummus
Chicken Tacos
Pacific Tuna Chopsticks
Wine: ”Ferel” Sauvignon Blanc, Washington
Ok, that sounds like typical food fare at Joey’s. Tacos, hummus, corndog, blah blah blah…… “Please make your way to your seats”
This is the point where my idea of Joey’s went right out the window. No burgers, no b.s., serious food, cooked by an amazing chef.
Citrus-Cured Haida Gwaii Salmon with Dungeness Crab Flan & Cornbread paired with L’ecole 41 Chenin Blanc, Washington.
They called this the bacon and eggs course…very nice and playful and delicious. The salmon was nice and fresh and it was cut perfectly and just fell apart in my mouth and left me wanting more. The dungeness crab flan was very nice and again, I wanted more. The egg under the frisee was great and had a nice tangy vinaigrette to perfectly balance itself on the dish.
Alaskan Black Cod, BBQ Pork Belly & Squash Dumpling in a Matsutake Mushroom Broth paired with Sandhill “Small Lots” Viognier, B.C.
Oh wow….but wait, there’s more……the mushroom broth.
“Chef Mills picked these mushrooms himself in British Columbia”. Are you serious? Really? “Yes, there are a few other items on the menu he foraged”. AWESOME!
This goes down as one of the best dishes I’ve ever eaten. Each bite had a different flavor component to it….then they served up some broccolini and more mushrooms with it just to make it more of an epic dish.
I was extremely happy at this point and I was happily anticipating the next course….could they top it? Yes, but here is something to refresh the palette before the next course. An apple salad that set it up perfectly.
I knew there was duck coming and I was really excited. I love duck and when it’s cooked correctly it’s one of the best things in the world. This duck was cooked correctly…..and it was one of the best things in the world.
Licorice Lacquered Duck Breast, Summer Cherry Conserve, with a Hazelnut-Crusted Korean Duck Roll paired with La Crema “Sonoma” Pinot Noir, California.
“We went golfing and while we were playing on the greens Chef was picking cherries”.
The duck cooked medium rare with warmed pitted cherries and the duck roll to add to the mix that was fantastic. I was putting pieces of the duck in the middle on top of the duck roll for a little duckxtravaganza and it was f’ing delicious. How about a cherry on top? OH MY!
45 Day-Aged Beef Rib Eye with Yukon Gold Potato, Braised Oxtail & Black Trumpet Mushroom Lasagna & Bellmann Farm Carrots paired with Magnificient Wine Co. “The Originals” Syrah, Washington.
Aged in-house for 45 days. A premium beef rib eye with an explosion of flavor from the oxtail lasagna. The oxtail lasagna could have been it’s own dish and I would have been extremely happy but to add the 45 day-aged steak it felt like someone just gave me a Ferrari and gave me a Rolls-Royce at the same time…..yeah, pretty amazing.
I absolutely hate when sauces go all over a plate and aren’t controlled. I love flooding techniques and when I saw the puree with the two onions on each side controlling the jus. I wanted to stand up and start applauding the chef….I would have but the other people at the table would have thought I was even more of a weirdo. Bravo Chef!!!
Vietnamese Banana Cake with Tropical Fruit Salad & Toasted Coconut Ice Cream paired with Inniskillin Okanagan Riesling Ice Wine, British Columbia.
Banana Cake was amazing and the marshmallow all the way to the right was incredible. I am definitely on a search for that ice wine as well. Yes.
Finally, a mignardises of raspberry muffins….proper way to end an amazing dinner.
On the way out I was handed a box with an apple and a chocolate inside. Chef Mills is ready for a James Beard Dinner/Anything. This was an absolute throw down in Seattle. It rocked everything I thought of Joey restaurants and I honestly feel bad for thinking this place was nothing more than a beer and sports place. Chef Mills is the real deal and Joey restaurants is lucky for having such an amazing chef at the helm. If a dinner like this occurred more often in their Lake Union I think it would be a great rivalry between themselves and another restaurant that overlooks Lake Union.
If you’re in New York on November 20th then get yourself over to the James Beard House and consider yourself lucky to be there (click)…that’s how I felt after this dinner.
Eric






































































































