Eric
Mangalitsa Lard Seared Scallops with Speck Lardons with a Smoked Tomato and Fresh Corn Sauce
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(Sponsored Post)
Last year around this time I had a little throw down with another blogger that was also sponsored Johnsonville (click). No throw downs this year so I would like to give you some new condiments to work onto some of those fantastic Johnsonville dogs.
I’ve been smoking a lot of things lately. I used to work at a restaurant and my station was located right above the smoker so two times a day I would get blasted with a ton of Alderwood smoke in my face which made not such a big fan of smoking… I don’t work there anymore and on a small level I missed that smell of smoke so I set up my grill at home to do some smoking.
Setting up a grill to smoke is easy. The first thing you want to do is stay away from any gas powered grill…it’s not worth your time and the results you will get will not be as good as a grill that’s set up to do charcoal. If you already have a smoking machine like this (click) then just use that…….(one day it will be mine)…..control is what you want (temperature & smoke time) and this is the best way to smoke something. I just don’t think a lot of people have $400+ sitting around to buy a smoker so I’m going to show you an inexpensive way to do this.
Go buy some wood chips. There are tons of types of wood chips out there….mesquite, apple wood, cedar, cherry wood, etc. I like the sweeter smelling woods rather than the standard alderwood or mesquite…..so my choice is normally apple wood or cherry wood. While you’re not going to be able to impart much flavor with these it’s important to just remember all you want to do is build another level of flavor to your food….think wine.
When setting up a charcoal grill to smoke just remember you won’t be able to do many larger cut proteins in the “smoker” because the burn times on wood chips just won’t allow a proper ring to develop in a larger piece of protein…..so doing a 15lb. apple wood smoked rock salt crusted prime rib isn’t a good choice….this is a job for the dream smoker I mentioned above. Also, when doing this type of smoking the temperature achieved through smoking won’t be enough to cook most food because once again the time of burn from the chips….You’ll get to 220-240F but for about 10-15 but the rest of the time is devoted to putting more chips in and opening and closing the top…..this is a no-g0 so think small. If you can get it much hotter than that temperature then congrats…..you’re doing it wrong.
A cheap experiment is salt and pepper. Take some freshly ground black pepper (large and coarse grind) and some kosher salt and place them in stainless steel bowls. Get the smoker ready then place the bowls in the smoker. 10 minutes later…..smoked salt and smoked black pepper! Wow, that was easy….right? If it’s not then do it more than once and it will become easier….that’s what cooking is all about. (That crust that develops on top of the salt is your “smoke ring”. Mix it into the rest of the salt and that will flavor the rest of the salt)
CHERRY WOOD SMOKED HEIRLOOM TOMATO SAUCE
Last weekend I was at the Farmer’s Market and there was a sale on bruised heirloom tomatoes. I jumped on this and said, “these will be great for sauce who cares if they’re bruised”. My sauce would become a ketchup-like sauce that I swear by.
Place a little extra virgin olive oil with about 3 pounds of heirloom tomatoes and a little smoked black pepper and smoked salt into a bowl. Get your smoker ready then place bowl in your smoker for about 15 minutes or about as long as the chips will burn for (sometimes you can get 20 if you have a little wind blowing around). In a sauce pan saute some white onion, garlic, and carrots in a pan along with some crushed red pepper. Remove the bowl from the smoker then take inside and place contents into the sauce pan on the stove at very low heat. Season with fresh oregano, fennel, pimenton dulce, and salt and pepper if needed. Puree this and strain then bring back to the stove in the sauce pan. Slowly reduce until a ketchup-like consistency is achieved or you can be lazy and just add cornstarch to thicken the sauce….whatever floats your boat…..or you could reduce then thicken with agar like I did and just be crazy! (Side note: Don’t throw away the remaining ingredients in the strainer from the puree. You can spread them out on a silpat then cook them at very low heat in the oven….let it cool….place it in a spice grinder and now you have a smoked tomato powder…..dip the glass of a bloody mary into that powder and take all the credit for being awesome at your next party).
These are pickled mustard seeds and while I won’t tell you how to make them exactly I will say that smoking them then making a puree of them then throwing them into a French mayonnaise (click) just might be one of the best things out there. Put it on a Johnsonville dog and you’re set!
“Eric I don’t want to smoke anything….any ideas?!?!?!”
Yes! It’s going to take time but it’s totally worth it!
“What….is…..that???????”
It’s a little bowl of amazing. A few months ago I read something about Thomas Keller and there was a recipe for his French Onion soup. What I took away from it is that he caramelizes his onions for about 5 hours before building the soup. That’s an enormous amount of time and after trying it a few times I swear by it.
The picture of it shows a little bowl of Walla Walla Sweet Onions that I caramelized. Your yield will be small…..I used 4 large onions totalling 4 pounds and I was left with around a cup of caramelized onions. I have taken Thomas Keller’s idea and spun it into an idea of my own!
At around the 2 1/2 hour mark I add PX S’Orange (Pedro Ximenez Sherry that has been infused with orange peels for over a year) then let that reduce over the last 2 1/2 hours to give a nice sherry/orange/caramelized onion flavor. Use this on your next Johnsonville dog with a little bit of that smoked heirloom tomato sauce and you’ll be the star of the party.
Johnsonville is having a video contest and the first 50 people that submit videos to the contest will receive free Johnsonville products. They’re also having a $2500 cash giveaway (click). If you like money and free stuff then this is your day!!
This Week’s Johnsonville GRILLVILLE Secret Code Word is “Sausage”
Go grill something with Johnsonville!
Eric
A little over a year ago I visited my parents in Puerto Rico and then I came back and wrote one of my favorite posts on this site that was part of my Puerto Rico Travel Guide (click).
A few days ago my mom sent me a little care package with a few different piques that I liked along with a few other things that aren’t ready for show and tell time….they need to grow first!
Last night I was eating leftovers from that molasses mangalitsa over some rice so I put a bunch of the Pique Criollo Limon over it and started to eat it. My phone buzzed letting me know I had a new comment so I pulled it up and this is what it said:
IM SO HAPPY YOU LIKED THE “PIQUES” FROM PR.!
I WAS SERCHING AROUND THE INTERNET AND RAN INTO YOUR BLOG, …
the “pique criollo” is my father in laws hot sauce.
MY WHOLE FAMILY LOVE’s it. Rafael crespo(maker/owner/my father in law:) put a lot of work and love intoo his sauce, our favorite is the flavor “de naranja”
im glad you enjoyed it!
im def. having him look at this page:)
erica
I’m not kidding, as I was eating the pique over food I received this comment. What are the odds on that?? I need to go buy a lottery ticket.
Thanks Erica and please let Rafael know that his pique is absolutely amazing!
Eric
Get some lettuce from the garden that Mindy grew.
Start building with the sides. First up….. Apple Wood Smoked Fava Beans cooked in Chicken Stock
5 Hour PX S’Orange Caramelized Onions
Balsamic/Fennel Peaches
Emmer Finished with Beecher’s Cheese….lots of it.
Cherry Wood Smoked Heirloom Tomato Sauce
Eat, the food is getting cold!
Lots of food here so practice plating……
Still needs work.
Eric
I was at the Queen Anne Farmers Market yesterday scoping out the demo. tent for my August5th extravaganza and I stumbled upon these cherries. With one more stop at the Mt. Townsend stand to pick up their Fromage Blanc I quickly went home to make the sauce. It’s simple. Pit the cherries, heat them up on low heat until they break down a little bit then add some sugar (optional, black pepper, and just a touch of salt then cool it down and serve over the cheese.
Eric
Bacalao…….salt cod…..or as Mindy calls it, “Oh my God, that smells awful”. I love this stuff, I grew up on it. When properly handled it turns into an amazing fish dish that you can enjoy anytime of the year.
I was reading Michael Ruhlman’s Charcuterie book and he talks about the origins of salt cod. The Viking’s used to air dry it on their ships and the salt of the sea air would cure it as they went around and did their pillaging…Viking #1 “We completely destroyed those people on that piece of land back there”. Viking #2 “I know, we’re pretty good at this whole Viking thing. I’m a little hungry do you have any of that cod left?” Viking #1 “Yeah, let me go grab it”. Viking #2 “Thank cod!”.
Later the Basques discovered cod and made it their own by salting it and that made it last longer. In the book there is a recipe to salt your own cod which I will be using next time but for now this bacalao will do.
The key to reconstituting the salt cod is to do it slowly and over the span of 24-36 hours by placing it in a water bath then replacing the water 2-3 times. Remember when reconstituting to leave the bacalao in the refrigerator while doing that…you don’t want to get sick.
From there there are endless options to this. My grandpa would make a cold salad with it with white onions, tomatoes, and avocado. My mom would make fritters. I like eating it by itself but when I need to introduce people to the awesome world of bacalao I reach back and give them the fritters. Hi, my name is Eric, here are my fritters (great way to introduce yourself).
Make a batter with flour, cornmeal, egg, cilantro, adobo, and a little black pepper. Add nice chunks of bacalao to the mix then form the balls, freeze them for 10 minutes, roll them again, the deep fry until you achieve a nice golden color. Serve with a salbitxada sauce and now you can high five yourself.
Thank Cod.
Eric
My leeky scallop idea worked out better than I had originally thought.
I originally wanted to do a leek three ways with the scallop but the main thing I wanted to see was how the scallop would react with the leek being wrapped around it while it was being seared….it worked! I took the three ways idea in a different path because I have changed my mind about it….when I do it I’m going to do it with a raw scallop and wrap it with something different…haven’t decided yet.
Anyway, the scallop is wrapped with the leek then seared in bacon fat. Removed then sel de mer on top then the olive is place on, sauce, basil flower, and eaten. Basil flower is a pretty nice touch (pat self on back).
Eric
I got a book (click) a while ago and had some honey that I infused with lavender to so I decided to put it to work.
Take a turkey breast that you have brined then get it ready to roast. Season with salt, pepper and the usual suspects then roast it until it’s done.
Save the pan juices then deglaze with white wine and reduce until it’s almost nothing. Work in the lavender honey to make a glaze.
The fingerling potatoes are sliced about 1/8 of an inch then shallow fried in clarified butter then topped with sel de mer and black pepper. The leeks are lightly cooked until translucent in clarified butter and sel de mer.
Slice the turkey then place a little clarified butter in a hot saute pan and toss the chicken in then the glaze to coat. This only takes about 35 seconds. Remove, plate, garnish with a micro green,
eat.
Eric
Think pork chops and apple sauce but with a few tweaks. TWEAK!
There is a spice rub that I put on the pork chops that consists of turmeric, salt, aji dulce powder, cinnamon, grains of paradise, and urfa biber (What are things you can’t buy for $1000 Alex). Then it’s fried!
Before that started I worked on the fuji apple chutney. It has a base of brown sugar, white wine vinegar, and fructose. I added a few spices once it started to reduce…..cinnamon, clove, bay leaf (dry then fresh towards the end), oregano, black pepper, and salt. Leave that to reduce a little more then reduce to low heat and add the apples. Yes please.
Finally the veal stock orzo. Well, it’s simple. Veal stock + Orzo + a touch of black pepper and salt. It goes underneath everything else as you can see in the picture. Then the pork chop, apples, sauce, then a little sauce around the edge of the plate. Don’t forget the micro-green garnish!
Eric
Grow micro greens…….use them on everything!
I’m experimenting with making my own pasta noodles. I’ve done it before but I’m using different flours in order to achieve different pastas that will work with specific types of sauces. I know, that’s a little particular but that’s what this is all about.
First up was this tempranillo puttanesca sauce with a thicker noodle to soak up a medium-thick sauce…..not a cream sauce but something that has a nice texture by itself. This pasta holds the sauce nicely but there are a few adjustments that can be made, obviously.
The sauce, killer. It’s my third version of a puttanesca and this one will be the standard. Lots of ingredients but they all push and pull each other harmoniously.
Olive oil, garlic, crushed red pepper, celery, onions, tempranillo, tomatoes, rosemary, lechon, oregano, kalamata olives, anchovy, salt, pepper, basil, veal-demi, black olives, micro greens
Is it really a puttanesca? Who knows. Does it taste like one? Yes. Is it awesome? Yes.
Eric
It’s a work in progress but a huge first step in the right direction.
15 day dry aged meat, which needs to be a different cut for this to work properly….still good though the way it was. Need one less layer of phyllo. The sauce on top is amazing…. It’s made from deglazing the pan where the caramelized onions were cooking then building it with veal demi, green peppercorn, crushed black pepper, and salt. Sauce presentation on the plate needs work.
The onions were caramelized for 5 hours. I built a bechamel then melted a ton of cheese into it. I sliced some russets very thin then placed the sauce in a squeeze bottle and layered the potatoes in the ramekin then flooded it with remaining sauce.
When the gratin was done I placed the onions on top and a little more cheese then torched it. This little concoction doesn’t need anything else.
Two experiments. One a complete success, the other needs a little refining. Next!
Eric
Worked most of the day, wanted pizza, so I made some! I looked for a nice dough recipe then proceeded to make an awesome pizza. Listen, it’s all about the crust with me. You can put gold bars on a pizza but if the crust isn’t crunchy, a little caramelized underneath, and bubbly with great yeast development then Eric is not happy. There are a lot of great pizza places in Seattle so normally I don’t have to make my own but I have this veal demi and I thought it would be epic to turn it into a pizza sauce…….great choice!
Earlier I went to my sister’s house and brought some simple food items that didn’t require me to cook anything but she had other plans for the evening so I turned into “relax and hang out Eric” to “what else am I going to do but cook something for Mindy”, Eric.
I took some clarified butter then heated it up, tossed in some minced shallots, minced garlic, diced red bell pepper, deglazed with red wine, then herbed it, salt and peppered it, then added some fresh tomatoes and reduced.
I shaped the dough then placed a little sauce, cheese, and red bell peppers on it then cooked it in the oven. I removed it then………..wait, let me show you my new book…..
It’s a nice story about fine ham from Virginia…..Country Ham, sliced paper thin, a nice substitute for Iberico, price is nice, fat tastes amazing.
Anyway, back to my pizza. When I removed the pizza from the oven it looked like this.
I topped it with the ham at that point then hit the ham with a torch to warm it up and get it smelling even more amazing.
Pizza, yeah baby
Eric
Ordered some veal bones, this is half the quantity I ordered weighed out on my scale. I worked the veal stock for a rather long period of time then proceeded to make a quarter of it into a veal demi-glace. This demi-glace will now be the base for my cooking over the next week or so…..it’s going to be amazing.
Eric
What’s he going to make first????
Tracked down some kasu paste and proceeded to marinate some sockeye. I got this idea from the Coco book and after trying the dish with black cod st the Steelhead Diner I did a little more fact finding and found out that any type of fatty fish would work.
The piece of fish you see above was marinated for 6 hours but I have 3 more pieces that will go to 24-36 hours in the marinade. I just want to test it out. I’m a huge fan so far!
This dish is a three parter. Braised veggies have red, yellow, and orange bell pepper, onion, garlic, baby bok choy, and a little braising liquid that I have been working.
The mung sprouts, green onions, and carrots are dressed in ginger oil and rice vinegar.
The salmon was seared in a pan skin side down then broiled……awesome move.
This dish is a keeper but Chef Davis and the people who published Coco already knew that………….. My changes weren’t needed, they were just adjustments to lack of ingredients and skill
Eric