Eric Rivera’s Cooking Blog

Before you get to any of the fun stuff you have to make some puff pastry.  Yes, make the puff pastry. Why? Because next time you buy the frozen stuff you’ll have an appreciation for it.  Making puff pastry is one of the most frustrating things I have made in the kitchen because it takes forever but the things you can make with it are amazingly simple…..that is frustrating for me!

So here are three recipes for puff pastry.

Quick Puff Pastry

Ingredients:

• AP flour, 6 1/4 oz
• Cake flour, 1 1/4 oz
• Unsalted butter, 8 ounces
• Salt, 1/2 tsp.
• Water, very cold,  4 oz

Procedure:

1. To mix the dough, place the all-purpose flour in a 2-quart (2-liter) mixer bowl and sift the cake flour over it. Thoroughly stir the two flours together.
2. Slice 1 ounce (30 grams) of the butter into thin pieces and add to the bowl. Rub in the butter by hand, tossing and squeezing in the butter until no visible pieces remain.
3. Cut the remaining butter into ½-inch (1.2-centimeter) cubes. Add the butter cubes to the flour mixture. Toss with a rubber spatula just to separate and distribute the butter. Do not rub the butter into the flour.
4. Dissolve the salt in the water. Make a well in the flour-and-butter mixture and add the water. Toss gently with the spatula until the dough is evenly moistened. Add drops of water, if necessary, to complete the moistening. Press and squeeze the dough in a bowl to form a rough cylinder.
5. To turn the dough, first lightly flour the work surface and the dough. Using the palm of your hand, press down on the dough three or four times to shape the dough into a rough rectangle.
6. Press and pound the dough with a rolling pin to form an even rectangle about ½ inch (1.2 centimeters) thick. Roll the dough back and forth along its length once or twice until it is an even rectangle about 1/4 inch (6 millimeters) thick. At this stage, pieces of butter are likely to stick to the work surface. If the dough does stick, loosen it with a long spatula or scraper. Clean the surface to minimize further sticking.
7. Fold both ends of the dough in toward the center, then fold them in toward the center again to make four layers, the double book fold. Position the package of dough so that the “spine” is on the left.
8. Lightly flour the work surface and the dough and repeat the pressing as before. Roll the dough along its length as before, then roll several times along its width to form a rectangle, approximately 6 inches x 18 inches (15 centimeters x 45 centimeters). Fold the dough into the double book fold as before. Repeat the process once more so that the dough will have three double turns.
9. Wrap the dough well in plastic and chill at least 1 hour before using.
10. The dough can be refrigerated about 3 days or frozen up to 1 month. Defrost frozen dough in the refrigerator overnight before using it.

Butter Puff Pastry

Ingredients:

• Bread flour, 1 lb.
• Pastry flour, 4 ounces
• Salt, .5 ounces
• Butter, soft, . 4 ounces
• Water, cold, 9 ounces
• Butter, pliable  1 lb. 2 ounces    (for roll-in)
• Bread flour, 2 ounces  (roll-in)

Procedure:

1. To prepare the dough, place the flours, salt, butter, and water in the mixer and blend on low speed with the dough hook attachment until a smooth dough is formed.
2. Shape the dough into a rough rectangle. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and dust the paper lightly with flour. Transfer the dough to the sheet pan, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes.
3. To prepare the roll-in, blend the butter and flour on low speed with the paddle attachment until smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a sheet of parchment paper. Form into a rectangle 1/2 inch thick. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until firm but still pliable. Do not allow the roll-in to become hard.
4. To lock the roll-in into the dough, turn out the dough onto the lightly floured work surface and roll it into a rectangle twice the size of the roll-in, keeping the edges straight and the corners squared. Administer a lock-in.
5. Turn the dough 90 degrees from its position before it was refrigerated and roll out into a rectangle 16×24 inches, making sure the edges are straight and the corners are squared. Administer a second four-fold. Cover the dough in plastic wrap and allow it to rest under refrigeration for 30 minutes.
6. Repeat this process two more times.
7. After completing the final fold, wrap the dough in plastic wrap and allow it to rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

Puff Pastry

Ingredients:

• AP flour, 13 ounces
• Salt, 1 1/2 tsp.
• Unsalted butter, 3 ounces
• Water, cold, 7 ounces
• Unsalted butter, softened, 10 ounces (for roll-in)

Procedure

1. To form the détrempe, sift the flour and salt together in a large bowl. Cut the cold butter into small pieces and then cut the pieces into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse cornmeal.
2. Make a well in the center of the mixture and add all the water at once. Using a rubber spatula or your fingers, gradually draw the flour into the water. Mix until all the flour is incorporated. Do not knead. The détrempe should be sticky and shaggy-looking.
3. Note: The détrempe can be made in a food processor. To do so, combine the flour, salt and pieces of cold butter in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Process until a coarse meal is formed. With the processor running, slowly add the water. Turn the machine off as soon as the dough comes together to form a ball. Proceed with the remainder of the recipe.
4. Turn the détrempe out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead the dough a few times by hand, rounding it into a ball. Wrap the dough tightly in plastic and chill overnight.
5. To roll in the butter, first prepare the softened butter by placing it between two sheets of parchment paper or plastic film. Use a rolling pin to roll the softened butter into a rectangle, approximately 5 inches x 8 inches (12.5 centimeters x 20 centimeters). It is important that the détrempe and butter be of almost equal consistency. If necessary, allow the détrempe to sit at room temperature to soften or chill the butter briefly to harden.
6. On a lightly floured board, roll the détrempe into a rectangle approximately 12 inches x 15 sticking.
7. Use a dry pastry brush to brush away any flour from the dough’s surface. Loose flour can cause gray streaks and can prevent the puff pastry from rising properly when baked.
8. Peel one piece of parchment or plastic film from the butter. Position the butter in the center of the rectangle and remove the remaining plastic. Fold the four edges of the détrempe over the butter, enclosing it completely. Stretch the dough if necessary; it is important that none of the butter be exposed.
9. With the folded side facing up, press the dough several times with a rolling pin. Use a rocking motion to create ridges in the dough. Place the rolling pin in each ridge and slowly roll back and forth to widen the ridge. Repeat until all the ridges are doubled in size.
10. Using the ridges as a starting point, roll the dough out into a smooth, even rectangle approximately 8 inches x 24 inches (20 centimeters x 60 centimeters). Be careful to keep the corners of the dough as right angles.
11. Use a dry pastry brush to remove any loose flour from the dough’s surface. Fold the dough in thirds, like a business letter, the single book fold. If one end is damaged or in worse condition, fold it in first; otherwise, start at the bottom. This completes the first turn.
12. Rotate the block of dough 90 degrees so that the folded edge is on your left and the dough faces you like a book. Roll out the dough again, repeating the ridging technique. Once again, the dough should be in a smooth, even rectangle of approximately 8 inches x 24 inches (20 centimeters x 60 centimeters).
13. Fold the dough in thirds again, completing the second turn. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and chill at least 30 minutes.
14. Repeat the rolling and folding technique until the dough has had a total of five turns. Do not perform more than two turns without a resting and chilling period. Cover the dough completely and chill overnight before shaping and baking.

Palmiers

Ingredients:

• 3/4 cup sugar
• 12 1/2 ounces puff pastry

Procedure:

1. Sprinkle half of the sugar evenly on a clean work surface. Place dough on top, and sprinkle evenly with remaining sugar.
2. Gently roll out dough into a 17×13 inch rectangle, about 1/8 inch thick, continually coating both sides with sugar and being careful not to press too hard around the edges. Using a pastry wheel or sharp knife, trim the outermost edges.
3. With your fingers, roll up one long side as tightly as possible into a cylinder, being careful not to stretch out the dough and stopping when you reach the middle. Repeat on the opposite side until you have two tight cylinders that meet in the middle. Wrap tightly in plastic and freeze until firm, about 15 minutes.
4. Using a sharp knife, cut the dough crosswise into 3/8 inch thick slices. Place slices on ungreased baking sheets, about 2 inches apart, and flatten firmly with the palm of your hand. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 375F
5. Bake for 5 minutes; reduce oven temperature to 350F. Using an offset spatula, flip the palmiers over; bake until pastry is golden brown and well caramelized, about 10 minutes more. Using the spatula, immediately transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, shiny side up.

Tarte Tatin

Ingredients:

• 1 lb. puff pastry
• 4 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, plus more for pan
• AP flour, for dusting
• Dash of lemon juice
• 2 1/2 medium baking apples

Procedure

1. Preheat the oven to 425F. Generously butter a 9-inch metal pie plate; set aside. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and set aside. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a 9-inch round, about 1/4 inch thick. place dough on the prepared baking sheet, and chill until firm, about 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a small saucepans, mix together the sugar, 2 tbsp. cold water, and the lemon juice to form a thick syrup. Bring to a boil over high heat, swirling pan; cook until the mixture turns medium amber, about 3 minutes. Remove the pan from heat, and pour the mixture onto the bottom of the prepared pie plate. Immediately add the butter, distributing evenly.
3. Arrange the apples, rounded sides down, around the bottom of the pan in a circular pattern, starting from the outside and working in, fitting them as close together as possible (the apples will be the top of the tart when served). Drape the chilled dough round over the apples to cover the mixture completely.
4. Bake until golden, about 25 minutes. Meanwhile, line a rimmed baking sheet with a clean nonstick baking mat, such as a Silpat. Remove the tart from the oven, and immediately invert it into the mat, working quickly but carefully to avoid contact with the hot caramel. Using tongs, carefully life the pie plate off of the tart. Transfer the sheet to a wire rack to cool.

Poached Pear Wrapped in Puff Pastry

Ingredients:

• 3 cups water
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split
• 4 pears, cored and peeled
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• Puff pastry, 8 ounces
• Fresh raspberry

Procedure:

1. Heat the water, sugar, and vanilla bean in a 2-quart saucepan over low heat until the sugar is dissolved, stirring occasionally.
2. Add the pears to the saucepan and cook for 10 minutes or until the pears are tender, turning occasionally. Remove the pears from the saucepan. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour or until the pears are cold. Leave the sugar mixture in the saucepan.
3. Stir the cream into the saucepan. Cook over low heat for 20 minutes or until the mixture is reduced to about 3/4 cup, stirring often. Remove the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the saucepan. Remove the saucepan from the heat.
4. Heat oven to 400F
5. Unfold the pastry sheet on a lightly floured surface. Cut the pastry sheet crosswise into 8 (3/4 inch wide) strips. Brush the strips with water and sprinkle with additional sugar.
6. Press the ends of 2 pastry strips together. Starting at the top, wind 1 pastry strip around 1 pear, slightly overlapping the edges of the pastry  and tucking the end under the pear. Repeat with the remaining pears and pastry strips. Place the wrapped pears onto a baking sheet. Loosely cover with foil.
7. Bake for 25 minutes or until the pastries are golden brown. Spoon the vanilla sauce onto 4 plates. Top each with 1 pear and garnish with raspberries.

Poppy Seed-Parmesan Cheese Straws

Ingredients:

• AP flour for dusting
• 1 lb. puff pastry
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten
• 2 tbsp. poppy seeds
• 1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
• 1 tbsp. paprika
• Coarse salt

Procedure:

1. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out puff pastry dough to a 17×14 inch rectangle, about 1/8 inch thick.
2. Transfer dough to a large baking sheet; lightly brush with some of the beaten egg, then sprinkle evenly with poppy seeds.
3. Gently press poppy seeds into dough with a rolling pin, taking care not to stretch the rectangle further. Refrigerate dough until firm, 10 to 15 minutes.
4. In a small bowl, combine cheese paprika, and a large pinch of salt; set aside.
5. Invert the dough into the work surface, then brush uncoated side with remaining beaten egg. Sprinkle evenly with the cheese mixture; use a rolling pin to gently press cheese mixture into the dough. Return dough to baking sheet, cheese side up; chill until firm, 10 to 15 minutes.
6. With a pizza wheel or pastry cutter, divide dough in half crosswise to make to rectangles, each 14×8 1/2 inches. Cut each half crosswise into 28 strips (each 1/2 inch wide), for a total of 56.
7. Twist each strip, then transfer to two large unlined baking sheets, pressing the ends onto the sheet to hold their shape. Refrigerate strips until firm, at least 30 minutes or overnight.
8. Preheat the oven to 375F. Bake, rotating sheets halfway through, until straws are light golden, 20 to 24 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

Individual Puff Pastry Tart Filled with Creme Brulee

Fresh Peach and Strawberry Tart with Almond Cream

Ingredients:

• 12 puff pastry, shaped into bouchees
• 2 lb. creme brulee for tarts
• 1 pt.. strawberries
• .5 pt red currants
• Powdered sugar, as needed

Procedure:

1. Fill the bouchees two thirds full with creme brulee for tarts.
2. In a circular fashion, place the strawberries cut side up overlapping one another. Using a pastry brush, glaze the strawberries with the raspberry tart glaze (raspberry jam + water).
3. Place strawberries and currants in the tarts

Peach Tart with Almond Cream

Ingredients:

• 6 ounce puff pastry
• 1 lb. 8 ounces almond cream
• 6-8 fresh peaches
• 3 ounces unsalted butter, melted
• 1 ounce granulated sugar
• Powder sugar, as needed

Procedure:

1. Roll out the puff pastry into a strip, approximately 6×22 inches and 1/8 inch thick. Lay the dough on a shet pan lined with parchment paper.
2. Using a large plain tip, pipe four rows of almond cream down the length of the puff pastry. Leave a 3/4 inch margin along both long edges of the dough.
3. Arrange the peach slices over the cream, overlapping slightly. Brush the peaches with melted butter and evenly sprinkle the sugar over them.
4. Bake at 400F until the dough is done and the peaches are lightly browned, approximately 20 to 30 minutes.